1" PRO TENON CUTTER
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I just got an old-style one on sale from Lee Valley. It's got a wooden body and chucks into an old brace (like brace and bit). Lee Valley also sells a counter sink for the hole to match up with the sloped shoulder of the tenon. Looks interesting. I've tried the cutter out a couple of times but will use it for real on a cane I'm making for my wife as soon as I get the brass knob in the mail.
I still don't trust cross grain glue ups so if I used a wooden handle I' still be inclined to pin it. Like this. http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/drawbored-mortise-tenon/
And if you pin it correctly, you don't need glue, and it's easier to change the handle, just drill out the pin.
I still don't trust cross grain glue ups so if I used a wooden handle I' still be inclined to pin it. Like this. http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/drawbored-mortise-tenon/
And if you pin it correctly, you don't need glue, and it's easier to change the handle, just drill out the pin.
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Definitely. If your cane wood is dark, use a light wood pin, and vice versa. You can also play with the end grain of the wood, turning it to be parallel to the grain of the wood which holds the mortice or set it perpendicular, or diagonal. And the idea of a draw bore pin is that you set the hole in the tenon just slightly (1/16" or even less in harder wood) off center, towards the shoulder of the tenon. When you drive the pin in, it pulls the tenon deeper into the mortice and sets it quite sturdily.
One other option for design that still works quite well functionally is to shape your pin into a hexagon or similar shape. The squared peg in the round hole still works quite well and really contrasts quite nicely.
Just don't make your pins out of too hard of a wood, you want it to be able to deform somewhat in the hole. This technique has been used for quite a long time. I seem to remember, but could be conflating, that some of the technique was found on the furniture in King Tut's tomb.
One other option for design that still works quite well functionally is to shape your pin into a hexagon or similar shape. The squared peg in the round hole still works quite well and really contrasts quite nicely.
Just don't make your pins out of too hard of a wood, you want it to be able to deform somewhat in the hole. This technique has been used for quite a long time. I seem to remember, but could be conflating, that some of the technique was found on the furniture in King Tut's tomb.
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Yes, I did buy one awhile ago and it works quite well for what it does. I can see it being quite useful in the making of
chairs but really cannot remember why I did buy it?
Anyhow, I did buy one of these and quite like it because it allows me to install their tip kits to some of my sticks.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,180,42288&p=54835
chairs but really cannot remember why I did buy it?
Anyhow, I did buy one of these and quite like it because it allows me to install their tip kits to some of my sticks.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,180,42288&p=54835
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I've seen those Sean -- I may have to get one of those also!
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Look forward to hearing how well it works. I'm putting a handle on my wife's cane and the interior dimension of the brass handle is a hair under 3/4" and the stick is at 7/8" and slightly oval. I'm going to use my tenon cutter to take it to 3/4" and then use my cabinet rasp to take it down to the final diameter. I tried it out on a test piece and it should work quite well. The shoulders of the tenon are sloped, and I'll use the rasp to try and square them off a bit. I'll be curious to see how well I can make the transition work from the body of the stick to the shoulders. As a square wood worker (boards rather than turning or round sticks) I'm used to square tenon shoulders.I'm still not sure how it will work.
I'll be curious to hear how you use it and how it works for you.
I'll be curious to hear how you use it and how it works for you.
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When I get a chance I will update and post pics!
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I tried it on a couple of sticks -- it worked great! I'll post pictures latter. Now I just need time to work the wood into canes!
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Wow! you can make some nice, long tenons with that thing. My old-fashioned wood one makes short tenons only.
I could see doing a through-tenon on a smaller stick into a larger handle. That could be really cool and look nice, and be strong as anything.
Cool!
I could see doing a through-tenon on a smaller stick into a larger handle. That could be really cool and look nice, and be strong as anything.
Cool!
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697 Posts
That's why I bought one... just remembered. Also, for putting handles onto canes. Haven't used it yet for that purpose.
In the past when putting on the cane handle I would just carve a round dowel onto the end of my stick to fit the handle
using one of my Mora's.
In the past when putting on the cane handle I would just carve a round dowel onto the end of my stick to fit the handle
using one of my Mora's.
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I havn't gotten any further yet -- but I've seen it done and look pretty nice!
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Now you Guys have had your Tenon cutters for a while, do you still use them?
I'm thinking of using one to fit my brass collars between handle and shank.
I'm thinking of using one to fit my brass collars between handle and shank.
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Yes! I have some ideas to use it more -- but it was worth it!
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I haven't been using mine much lately at all. Prob should give it a bit of use but I enjoy carving out my tenon with my 106 Mora knife. I just get a better fit and I can choose the hole size for the piece rather than being restricted to the power tenon size.
Sean
Sean
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Just ordered one, I think UK sticks are generally small than from over the pond, most of my collars are 25mm and I can never get a really good fit, so I'll see how I get on.
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Keep us updated on your progress!
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