[graydog]

I mentioned this candlestick at another page, but now it's a work-in-progress walking stick.

I bought these 2 brass candlesticks at Salvation Army because I wanted to melt down and cast the brass into a flat piece to make a bolster for a knife, and this is a very inexpensive source of scrap brass. After I got it home and started looking at it, the more I thought it might look good on a walking stick. I also learned my "solid brass candlestick" is actually 3 pieces, threaded and screwed together and is mostly hollow, LOL

Yesterday afternoon, I went to shop to find a suitable Bois D'Arc straight stick, but most everything had a natural "T" on the top and I didn't want to cut any of them up. I found this old post hole digger handle. Although it was a little rough, it is straight grained and I believe it is ash. I cut it to 41", which is probably too short for a walking stick, but I like it's length. Right now my plan is to use one piece of the candlestick and mount a 1.5" pool ball on top of that.

1st photo shows candlesticks. I'm using a piece of the shortest one.

2nd shows original post hole digger handle

3rd shows it cut & some sanding done

4th is 3 pieces of candlestick

5th shows end filed to fit into brass hole

6th shows brass onto shaft

It's by no means finished, but more on it later.

 

[Sean]

Looking good, can't wait to see it finished. It's quite amazing what you can find for cheap such as brass candlesticks, and an old shovel handle and make something nice with it.
This post has reminded me to go on the scrounge at some of our second hand stores. I'd like to get some old glass and porcelain door knobs and try using them as toppers for some sticks.

 

[graydog]

Good idea, Sean. I too have thought about door knobs for toppers. Some of the old ones are brass too. You gotta think outside the box, and if you see something dirt cheap, just buy it. These two candlesticks cost $1.00 each on "Half Price Wednesday" sale. I'm going back this morning to see what else they have.

 

[Sean]

I remember back when I was a kid we moved my mom and dad bought this this 100 year old farmhouse. All the old solid wood doors were equipped back then with clear glass knobs and skeleton key locks. I remember seeing an old box full of surplus.
We'd go out to a section of the acreage where they used to dump some types of garbage from the past when you were allowed to do so. My sister and I started digging for some reason around the area and all that was left were these old, old bottles and licence plates from British Columbia dating back to the 1940's approximately. Great finds I just now wished I still had some of them but as is often the case at the time we just didn't see or anticipate the value in some things.

 

[firie000]

Creativity at its best. Well done!

 

[graydog]

I have put in about 10 hours on this thing, so far, I think. It's coming along slowly. Doing a lot of careful filing & sanding on shaft. I have a lot of air tools for removing a lot of material quickly, but I am past that stage now. They are just too rough, so now it's all hand work.

Someone needs to start a topic on "Tools I Use in Making a Cane". I have an electric Makita hand held belt sander about 1.5" wide with variable speed that I use a lot on projects. Another nice tool is a HF air belt sander about 1/2" wide. I am past using either one of them on this shaft now.

Attached are latest photos, but I have a long way to go. I bought a 1.5" mini billiard ball on eBay yesterday and plan on mounting it on top of the brass candlestick part. I found that the inside threads on the brass part are SAE 5/8", so I should be able to connect the two with a piece of all-thread SAE 5/8" bolt stock. The bolt in last photo was just to show bolt size. I may cut off that bolt to attach ball to brass.

I went to Salvation Army store again on "1/2 price Wednesday" and bought several more pieces of brass to add to my scrap collection for about $8.00 that would have easily cost $100.00 retail, not to mention driving all over town hunting for new brass.

 

[graydog]

..................Great finds I just now wished I still had some of them but as is often the case at the time we just didn't see or anticipate the value in some things.

In 1948, at age 12, I cut off a green tree limb, peeled the bark off, leaving a spiral. I wrote my name and the date on the part where I had peeled off the bark. I kept it for a day or two, and finally threw it away, thinking it would never be an old antique. I think I have been trying to replace it ever since. LOL

 

[graydog]

This is the 1.5" mini-pool ball I bought on eBay. It's a really nice heavy composite material & cost $5.00 with free s/h and was here in two days. I drilled and tapped it to 3/8" NC threads about 5/8" deep. The two "8" numerals have a definite top and bottom, and if I put one right side up on one side, the other would have been upside down, so this way, one is right & the other is sorta hidden.

The bolt is screwed in temporarily. At this time I am planning on attaching the bolt into the brass with Loctite epoxy putty. The brass top has threads, but a bolt will only screw into 2 threads, so it wouldn't be very strong.

I stained the stick, but it rained today and I am giving a little time to dry good before sealing it. Has anyone used CA (Super Glue) thinned with alcohol to put a clear coat on wood? I don't know, but they say it's tough and seals out moisture.

 

[MJC4]

I have heard of using super glue as a finish on smaller pieces.

I think you can accomplish the same result with spar polyurethane. A quart of poly in a satin finish would go a lot farther than superglue at a much more reasonable price.

 

[graydog]

........I think you can accomplish the same result with spar polyurethane.........

Sounds reasonable. I'm sorta afraid of the CA as a finish.

 

[firie000]

Have you considered clear rust guard? It brings out a lovely shine on buffalo horn. A light spray is all I use.

Cheers

 

[Sean]

I used to put ca glue as a finish on a few slingshots I made. You have to make sure if your going to use it that your in a well ventilated area. It's harsh stuff and you'll know it if you don't as it will tear your eyes and the smell is bad. Also make sure the piece is dry or you can get a milky film on the finish. The upside is it dries very, very quickly.

 

[graydog]

Have you considered clear rust guard? It brings out a lovely shine on buffalo horn. A light spray is all I use.

Thanks firie000, but the "White Knight rust guard topcoat clear guard" seems to not be available in USA. It's available on eBay from Australia, 500ml for $88.00. Half of that is shipping costs. Sounds good though. Found some forum posts saying Eastwood's rust guard is same product.

Also thanks for the info, Sean

 

[graydog]

Well, here it is except for clear finish to seal it. I buffed it by hand with Scotchbrite to show a antique, home made, well worn look. If I was not afraid it would warp, I wouldn't seal it. I like it even though it's not my favorite.

Now maybe I can fix that squeak in the clothes drier my wife's been griping about.

 

[firie000]

It looks great. Eye-catching and different.

Another thought for the sealer might be marine varnish. Top stuff the old marine varnish - gives a beautiful look and smooth finish (with several coats) to any timber.

As far as the clear guard goes I'm guessed that brand wouldn't be on your neck of the woods just posted it as an example -

any paint shop or hardware place should have something similar.

Anyway - excellent work!

 

[graydog]

Thanks again, fifir000.

I am not suggesting that this is correct or even that you should try it. I am only reporting what I did with very good results.

SEALING WOOD WITH CA / ACETONE MIX

I tried mixing alcohol & CA (super glue), but they don't mix. I got back online and went to Wikipedia. They suggested acetone as solvent & cleanup. I put about 3 tablespoons of acetone in a little medicine bottle and added about 1/4 teaspoon of CA. It mixed up good. I wiped it on to the walking stick with small pieces of a Bounty paper towel. It goes on very smooth, but the paper dries out & must be discarded in about 30 seconds. get another piece of paper towel and continue. The coating dries to touch in about 1 minute. You have to do this in well ventilated area, as Sean suggested. Do not use cotton or wool or even cotton gloves. They will get hot & put off fumes, Wikipedia says. The mix will keep for a while in sealed bottle, but I cannot tell you how long. I put on 2 coats and it looks very good....like 20 coats of lacquer. I am well pleased.

You can buy 1 ounce of CA for $6.00 on eBay here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Knife-Making-Adhesive-GLUE-Special-Formula-POPULAR-ITEM-1-0-OZ-FREE-SHIPPING-/371213026194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item566e054392

$6.00 is fantastic price for 1 oz. Retail stores sell 1/15 oz for $4.50

Now if I can just get this stuff off my finger & thumb.

 

[CV3]

I have used CA glue for a number of years on small projects like pens, carved jewelry and a few cane handles. But it is too expensive for anything larger. Its advantage is it is an acrylic finish. And it is not affected by body oils or moister like varnishes and oils are. Using a thin CA, 20cps for the first coats will absorbs in to the wood and stabilizes it, helping prevent future cracking. There is a lot on the web about it. You want to us a well ventilated area.

 

[graydog]

I have used CA glue for a number of years on small projects like pens, carved jewelry and a few cane handles. But it is too expensive for anything larger. Its advantage is it is an acrylic finish. And it is not affected by body oils or moister like varnishes and oils are. Using a thin CA, 20cps for the first coats will absorbs in to the wood and stabilizes it, helping prevent future cracking. There is a lot on the web about it. You want to us a well ventilated area.

Mixing it with acetone, a little went a long way. Probably 1 tablespoonful of the mix did 2 coats on the shaft. I sealed up the bottle 6 hours ago and it's still in a liquid state.

I applied it outdoors. I was surprised how easy it was to apply, but it is messy. I should have worn latex gloves. Maybe I'll do better next time. When searching for "White Knight rust guard", I found an automotive clear coating called "Rock Guard", in a can or spray can. Sounds like it is a plastic coating that you can peel off later.

 

[MJC4]

Very sweet looking piece graydog!

My concern with the using ca glue as a finish for a stick is will it chip?

 

[Sean]

I use finger cots ( aka finger condoms). Works great for just using one digit for application as to going through a whole latex glove.