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With Norson asking the question re insetting coins I thought I would expand the process to cover its use in a handle.
The stick
Most club members when making a cowhorn stick inset a multitude of things-coins,badges,flowers,photo's,glitter etc. I aquired a nice cow horn and the had to decide what to do with it.
The first and foremost requirement is that it must be comfortable to walk with everything else purely aesthetic
when holding the horn balance on a shank (loads of Blu Tac & masking tape) it was too upright and uncomfortable at the wrist, tipping the horn forward sit tarted to come comfortable - How to incorporate this into the design - sketching it out immediately solved it -A wedge shaped spacer- which threw up another problem - mounting it to the shank, not practical to drill the horn in line with shank due to curvature sketching again solved it - bend the studding eureka start making.
I then decided that I would like to have ablack cap on the open end with a whit ring ist (to compliment the colouration of the horn.
The process:-
Cow Horn is hollow - fill using car body fillier, leaving a well at the top for cold cast resin.
next stage when set, drill hole for studding and drill 15mm dia hole in center of open end by approx 10mm deep
next stage was to form a well/reservoir to take the rasin and epoxy in a length of 15mm dia plastic water pipe
next job was to mix the resin and catalyst with the addition of a black dye and pour into reservoir and tube
after the resin had cured the masking tape was removed and the process of reducing the sticking out bit to a beautiful highly polished domed using rasps,files reducing grades of wet and dry carborundum paper and final TCut and polish. then fix the bent studding ready for mounting to shank
Final job was to make the wedge spacer, this was cast as a short round bar at the time of casting the cap, alternatively Buffalo horn or any material of choice could have been used.the spacer was sandwiched between 2 bone spacers.
Handle fitted to shank (a golden coloured hazel) and smoothed dow to form a good smooth join -Finished or so I thought she who must be obeyed took one look and remarked "that shank colour no way goes with that handle"
back to the drawing board - Do I cut the shank off and re-shank or is there any other way, thinking cap on,
on closer inspection of the shank the bark had a light grooved like texture - could I use this and colour the shank, did a quick test on the offcut from the shank and gave it a go.
I painted the shank with black acrylic paint and let dry, then sanded the shank lightly taking paint off the crest of the grooves and leaving it in the valleys, success she loved it
That is one stick I am very happy with.
The stick



Most club members when making a cowhorn stick inset a multitude of things-coins,badges,flowers,photo's,glitter etc. I aquired a nice cow horn and the had to decide what to do with it.
The first and foremost requirement is that it must be comfortable to walk with everything else purely aesthetic
when holding the horn balance on a shank (loads of Blu Tac & masking tape) it was too upright and uncomfortable at the wrist, tipping the horn forward sit tarted to come comfortable - How to incorporate this into the design - sketching it out immediately solved it -A wedge shaped spacer- which threw up another problem - mounting it to the shank, not practical to drill the horn in line with shank due to curvature sketching again solved it - bend the studding eureka start making.
I then decided that I would like to have ablack cap on the open end with a whit ring ist (to compliment the colouration of the horn.
The process:-
Cow Horn is hollow - fill using car body fillier, leaving a well at the top for cold cast resin.


next stage was to form a well/reservoir to take the rasin and epoxy in a length of 15mm dia plastic water pipe


next job was to mix the resin and catalyst with the addition of a black dye and pour into reservoir and tube

after the resin had cured the masking tape was removed and the process of reducing the sticking out bit to a beautiful highly polished domed using rasps,files reducing grades of wet and dry carborundum paper and final TCut and polish. then fix the bent studding ready for mounting to shank



Final job was to make the wedge spacer, this was cast as a short round bar at the time of casting the cap, alternatively Buffalo horn or any material of choice could have been used.the spacer was sandwiched between 2 bone spacers.
Handle fitted to shank (a golden coloured hazel) and smoothed dow to form a good smooth join -Finished or so I thought she who must be obeyed took one look and remarked "that shank colour no way goes with that handle"
back to the drawing board - Do I cut the shank off and re-shank or is there any other way, thinking cap on,
on closer inspection of the shank the bark had a light grooved like texture - could I use this and colour the shank, did a quick test on the offcut from the shank and gave it a go.
I painted the shank with black acrylic paint and let dry, then sanded the shank lightly taking paint off the crest of the grooves and leaving it in the valleys, success she loved it
That is one stick I am very happy with.
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