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Very informative article, Randy. Thanks for posting it. I've been wanting to get a bit better at the finishing part of the stickmaking process.
 

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Retired engineer
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Interesting article. I make my own wiping finishes using a 1:1:1 blend of commercial varnish, Tung oil, and turpentine. I prefer McCloskey's Man-O-War spar varnish, but its somewhat hard to find, so I have used Zar Polyurethane - which is made from Tung oil rather than linseed oil. And I use turpentine as the solvent because I want to avoid petroleum-based components. I can tell my wife it's vegetarian!

One thing to be aware of - this article calls this blend a 'Danish Oil', but a less common name is'long oil varnish' because it contains a higher proportion of oil than the standard varnish blend. One of the characteristics of long-oil varnishes is that they cure to form a finish that is very slightly softer than conventional varnish blends. I don't consider that to be a problem, but it is something to be aware of.

A sort of 'everything you every wanted to know but were afraid to ask' article on finishes is Russ Fairfield's Finishing Secrets. That is the source of the formula I use. This article implies (but kinda circumvents a clear statement) that the blend of alkyd varnish, Tung oil and solvent is essentially equivalent to the commercial Tung oil finish called Waterlox.
 
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