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Yes I have decided to only do my walking sticks and canes in danish oil...

My problem with a topcoat is that they scuff to easy. Seems to me that danish oil doesn't scuff and scratch as opposed to a topcoat...

As the danish oil I use is Watco Danish oil..

I already did a sasasfras walking stick in danish oil and two maple walking sticks...

Just thought I would share that with you all...
 

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Oils have always been a very good finish for walking sticks, wears well and is easy refinish when needed. I would recommend linseed oil or tung oil. My expeance has been that they hold up better to the elements than the Danish oils.
 

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I use a lot of boiled linseed oil. It's cheap and readily available at any local hardware. I sometimes add oil based stain to the linseed oil to effect a different color to the wood.
 

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I only use danish oil, but i hardly ever remove the bark of the shanks its to nice a colour and very smooth,

any oil will do the job but think it gives a durable finish to the shank and dosnt chip.

danish oil has about 25% varnish in it anway. but gives a good finish and its easy to give it a quick wipe over with a cloth
 

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Have you tried leaving the bark on? then just oil it Its the traditional way here?

Hazel has a very large range of coloured bark and provides a natural protective coat
 

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Some sticks I've only used wood wax on -- some times I mix in a little stain with the wax (an old wood shop teacher trick). The wax job is especially easy when your using a lathe!
 

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I did finish a bunch of sticks w. tung oil. and have been happy w. the finish. I've found that teak oil, which is thinner, penetrates harder woods better. It offer similar moisture protection as tung, but ends up a little glossier.

I knew a wood sculptor who would seal his works w. bees wax, but the works needed buffing at least once a year.
 

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I like bees wax but got to agree it needs regular maintenece. but it always looks good. i dont think its very good for stickmaking tho.not if your using them reguar
 

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I've been using 100% tung oil since my first walking stick. But for my sister-in-law's, I tried Danish oil. I had just used Danish oil for the first time on my walking stick stand, and so I used it on a "diamond" willow with lots of pins from her travels embedded.

I had experimented on scraps with various tints and with neutral (no tint), and applied the first coat using light oak tent. I shook the can vigorously, but I later discovered some waxy accumulations around the margins inside the can. The excess was very sticky and difficult to wipe off after 45 minutes or so. However with some intense buffing with an old coarsely woven cotton shirt, the sticky residue was removed and a subtle sheen remained. After two days of drying I applied a second coat using the neutral Danish oil. This buffed off easily, and I'm not sure how much was able to penetrate. I think some did.

I suspect that the light oak Danish oil can was too old and that may explain the waxy accumulation inside the can.

Since the majority here seem to believe that the tung oil is more scratch resistant than the Danish oil, I am researching the possibility of applying 100% tung oil over the Danish oil. So far, the opinions on woodworking websites vary. Here's what I'm about to ship. I'll give them a can of something for touch-up at a later date.

gallery_11_18_601491.jpeg
 

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I have the same can of danish oil since I started stick making and still use it. but never tried tung oil maybe I should?

The cap of it is well and truly gunged up but it still seems okay

I only apply it with a cloth very thin coat at a time and leave it a day or two to dry .I do like the finish of it.
 
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