[CV3]

Basswood eagle topper under construction.

 

[MJC4]

As always good looking piece CV3.

Any ideas on what type of staff yet?

 

[CV3]

As always good looking piece CV3.

Any ideas on what type of staff yet?

Yes it will go on a basswood cane shaft.

 

[cobalt]

good looking eagle looks very well proportoned

you must have got some good referance material.

Good pics are always difficult to come by always try to get side view and front and where possible the top view

good to see work in progress

good to see you back on line

 

[CV3]

good looking eagle looks very well proportoned
you must have got some good referance material.
good to see work in progress

This is the best reference books I have found of hawks and eagles cobalt. Wonderful pictures from every angle you could want and drawings. Here is an example. ( Not a cheep book but worth the investment. I have used it many times.

 

[cobalt]

Thats interesting will look it up always on the look out for good ref. books.

Sounds as though it will cover a large variety of birds or is it limited to american species

Have a fancy to do a vulture wonder if it come into the book

 

[CV3]

Thats interesting will look it up always on the look out for good ref. books.
Sounds as though it will cover a large variety of birds or is it limited to american species
Have a fancy to do a vulture wonder if it come into the book

 

[CV3]

A little more done yesterday and today. Textured head because I think it give a good grip. I think I need to do some work on the beak. It is a bit long and needs more curve at the end.

 

[MJC4]

I am really intrigued by your attachment of topper to staff. Is the knurled piece between the head and shaft part of the topper or the staff? Or is it an entirely separate piece? I have been using the brass ferrules I get from Treeline or wrapping the joint with a suede leather lacing but I am always looking for other options and I really like the look of the knurled piece..

 

[CV3]

I am really intrigued by your attachment of topper to staff. Is the knurled piece between the head and shaft part of the topper or the staff? Or is it an entirely separate piece? I have been using the brass ferrules I get from Treeline or wrapping the joint with a suede leather lacing but I am always looking for other options and I really like the look of the knurled piece..

If you look about 3/4 above the partly carve rope you will see there is a change in color of the wood. That is where splice is between the topper and shaft is. Sense I will paint the head It will not be seen. I often use the splice line as a transition point to some kind of textering or decortive carving. This is a example making its own ferrule.

 

[rdemler]

Nice work,I don't think I'll ever have that kind of talent.And for reference pics the taxidermy industry has many books with detail pics from all angles.

 

[cobalt]

Its comig along nicely

interested to see how you texture it before painting

The rope transition looking good

i iether use buffalo or horn spacers sometimes either buffalo collar or silver nickel. ,but the contrasting colours between the shank and the topper makes a good job draws the image out well and enhahces it nicely

 

[cobalt]

Thanks for the info on the book,but cant find it yet tried amazon ,no joy but will search other sites

heres a couple of books you may be interested in both on carving wild fowl decorstive decoys ,very good templates. Its these that got me into carving toppers.and there where pretty cheap

There very good value for money,there 21 templates in the books ,both femal and male speices of wildfowl.Theres no carving guidlines just the templates ,but there is hints and tips on how to paint them which would be pretty good if you use that brand of paints.I cant get them here and they dont work on the brand i uas the colours dont mix as the book says, so stick to my own pallete.

book1

book2

 

[cobalt]

Carving a topper on some shanks can be difficult to get the balance right between the topper and the shank, the transition into the shank can often be difficult ,paricularly on some birds ,such as birds of prey.

I tend to favour birds with longer necks such as wild fowl or any thing that has a neck on it it balances up well to the shank,so the rope collar works well and allows much better transition than say a nickel silver collar as it allows a larger topper to be carved giving a better flow into the shank.For the eagle head i have carved seems a tad clumsy on the thickness on my shanks as i have cut the neck down to meet with the shank, so something on this line may help to draw the bird onto the shank and look better and would allow a better balance

Some pieces seem stiff and rigid and never seem to flow into the shank they oftern look to be just stuck on so to get the balance between the topper and the shank plays a important part in the looks as many a decent piece is ruined by the transition

Other birds such as a lot of english breeds are small such as the robin chaffinch etc, allow the whole bird to be carved to look as though its perched on the shank and looks attarctive and prove to be popular here, the example of the kingfisher(in my gallery) seems to work well giving allowing the look of perchingon the shank.I am never sure whether or not to paint it in the bright colours of the kingfisher rather then the burning i have done on it.

The humming birds look a nice subject to carve but the long thin beaks seem to delicate for the pole to be pratical.but always searching for ideas

Iam also looking at woodpeckers trying to work out if i colul carve one and mount it on the side of the shank to give a more natural look for the bird, this of course would make the shank taller if mounted at near tthe top ,then how to finish the top of the shank of of is another probelm?

but keep the pics coming its looking good

 

[cobalt]

I may have a go at your type of transition and particularly like the walking canes idea ,it should work well on a hiking pole ,just need a subject to try it on

 

[CV3]

This is a walnut cane Handle is stained. The transition point from cane handle to shaft is at the bottom of the fish scales not the dark handle.

 

[cobalt]

Nicley textured.you work has a nice flow from the handle down to the shank and is always a good sign of good design and artistic talent tied to craftmanship

There are some pretty good ideas on the site from functional design/ideas to the more radical like using pipes for the shank( something i would never had thought of) and most people contribute ideas and pass on information such as the cabbage stick.its a pity that more visitors dont join the site as the visitors numbers seem to get bigger

Tempted to carve into the shank of my hiking poles .I think carving into the natural bark would provide good contrast.Had a go with some offcuts ,but now i have some 3mm burrs i will try some nordic art down the shank.mayby fit the vikings head to it

This site brings so many different ideas to mind its a source of inspration and frustration..its oftern a choice of what i want to do and what i have time to do? or what the wife wants me to do.

 

[cobalt]

hows the eagle coming on?

 

[CV3]

hows the eagle coming on?

Thanks for asking cobalt. I have had a couple of paying customers show up the last week had to move the eagle and the cedar stick on the back burner. Hope to get back to them next week. I have a diamond willow/hame handled and a hickory/ hames handle canes to do.

 

[MJC4]

Cash customers, awesome sounds like more tools are in the near future!