I happen to be working w. some yew. I don't know what species. Canadian yew is native to this area, but what I have is from ornamental plantings in yard.
I'll offer what I am experiencing, and have learned online.
Yew is peculiar in that the transition between sap wood and heart wood is not as clear as in many other woods. I'm risking 1 piece I have by carving into it while it is still green. There are areas where 4 or 5 years of growth rings are both pale sap wood, and the darker heart wood. I'm a little perplexed by this. While a mixture of sap wood and heartwood appears to be desirable for yew archery bows, I was taught that it is better to not have a mixture of both in carvings. Even dried, the two kinds of wood expand and contract at different rates, leading to cracks.
I have a number of shorter lengths that I plan on using as handles for tau shapes canes. I stripped away the sapwood from some of these immediately. The sap had just begun to run, but water was oozing from the wood as I cut. When I got down to solid heartwood, I found no trace of moisture. The wood has a waxy feeling to me. I can easily sand it to a gloss finish that is as smooth and clear as anything w. varnish, lacquer, shellac, etc. If I learn it is naturally water resistant, I may not put any finish on it at all.
It reminds me of some tropical hardwoods I have worked.
I'm currently using tung oil as a finish. I tried some on a bit of yew heart. Not much was drawn into the wood, and it is drying very slowly.
I've read that wooden utensils made from yew can be finished w. walnut oil. I've read that English yew long bows were finished w. a mixture of tallow oil and wax, and I've read that some contemporary boyers finish their bows with oil then wax.
Have fun w. your shilelagh. I'm noticing that after just a few months of drying, the sap wood is becoming quite tough. The heartwood, depsite the pressure needed to cut it, has a fine grain, and not to hard to shape.
I'll offer what I am experiencing, and have learned online.
Yew is peculiar in that the transition between sap wood and heart wood is not as clear as in many other woods. I'm risking 1 piece I have by carving into it while it is still green. There are areas where 4 or 5 years of growth rings are both pale sap wood, and the darker heart wood. I'm a little perplexed by this. While a mixture of sap wood and heartwood appears to be desirable for yew archery bows, I was taught that it is better to not have a mixture of both in carvings. Even dried, the two kinds of wood expand and contract at different rates, leading to cracks.
I have a number of shorter lengths that I plan on using as handles for tau shapes canes. I stripped away the sapwood from some of these immediately. The sap had just begun to run, but water was oozing from the wood as I cut. When I got down to solid heartwood, I found no trace of moisture. The wood has a waxy feeling to me. I can easily sand it to a gloss finish that is as smooth and clear as anything w. varnish, lacquer, shellac, etc. If I learn it is naturally water resistant, I may not put any finish on it at all.
It reminds me of some tropical hardwoods I have worked.
I'm currently using tung oil as a finish. I tried some on a bit of yew heart. Not much was drawn into the wood, and it is drying very slowly.
I've read that wooden utensils made from yew can be finished w. walnut oil. I've read that English yew long bows were finished w. a mixture of tallow oil and wax, and I've read that some contemporary boyers finish their bows with oil then wax.
Have fun w. your shilelagh. I'm noticing that after just a few months of drying, the sap wood is becoming quite tough. The heartwood, depsite the pressure needed to cut it, has a fine grain, and not to hard to shape.
