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I`m pleased to say i dont get that problem .probaly limited to the wood shanks i use and season myself .

The use of different woods is larger over there than i have access to , also the approach towards stickmaking is quite different cracks and shanks that are out of true are more acceptable

My own view is very differnt from many here i would discard it
 

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I used an epoxy enamel resin with color added to fix a crack as an experiment.I think it looked pretty good and a great way to add some color at the same time.
 

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Hi yaxley. I rarely fill deep crack in sticks. My experience has been that once they are large and deep it is a structural issue. If they have not dried really well they most likely will continue. I have patched small cracks by carving the crack a bit wider shaping a wedge to fit tight in the the hole or crack, I use Gorilla glue. It expands and has some flexibility. Some I know just put epoxy in the crack as a filler. But it will not flex with the movement of the wood.
 

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I've used copper and turquoise to fill cracks.The epoxy enamel resin when used without color additives is Chrystal clear and the crack will still have the rustic cracked look.
 

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I have never filled a crack that was deep enough to compromise the integrity of the stick. I have had small cracks appear in carvings of wood I have "harvested" from dead trees. These imperfections I filled with Elmer's carpenters glue which dries a light brown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
These imperfections I filled with Elmer's carpenters glue which dries a light brown.
For regular wood working I have mixed saw dust with Elmer's wood glue to fill small holes and cracks. Never did it on sticks though. I can certainly understand not wanting any cracks or checking with wood carving, and guess that is also the same thing for burning.
 

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There is always a chance of some checking or cracking on a stick. Using a well seasoned stick and a good finish will minimize the chances.
 

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Every single piece of Oak I had split something terrible. Mostly they end up in compost, as firewood or Sandra takes them over,
 

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Epoxy resin is what I use. Cracks, by nature, do decrease wood strength integrity. That said, some woods can have many cracks and still suffice as walking sticks and canes.

Example is a cane I have been fiddling with for a year or so. Maple, found in a lumber site pushed into the dirt. It had already cracked severly. I stress tested it on my 245 frame, tried to bend it over my knee, smacked it across a couple of oaks. Verticle strength is superb and would crack a skull or femur just fine without breaking.

The guy I am planning on giving it to is much smaller than my demur size :) and he doesn't really need to use it, but I will alert him to the possibilities of future deterioration (although I doubt it will).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I've made many rustic sticks with similar cracks, JJireh. They were well dried in the desert and probably a reason for the cracks. Regardless, they came out very nice and not aware of any further cracking. I've even made some canes that were used for support and walking...again OK. I think the cracks actually add to the character of the stick, but I haven't done any with carving.
 

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Do you think that a shank thats damaged is worth this , wouldnt it be easyer just to get a decent shank?
Yes and yes. I have plenty of decent shanks too. But as yaxley says, there is definitly character...not beauty mind you, but definite character. we call it 'grit' :)

The root ball on this thing is amazing not only in comfort but appearance. It has a 'story' if you will. Grizzled Elder Native American Chief carved into a grizzled scarred maple with gnarly root ball handle.
 
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