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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have been using polyurethane on oak and walnut but seems like it bubbles or when it dries leaves patches that are uneven. I have been using a brush to apply. Any ideas on how to smooth it up?
 

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I use a foam brush which tends to leave bubbles as well. Going slow when brushing on helps. I give each stick a few coats of poly and sand lightly between.
I find that if each successive coat is thinner than the previous one, it tends to not have as much problem with unevenness. Before the final coat is fully dry, I will look over the stick and remove any bubbles or blobs with a fingernail and rub it a bit to flatten it out. I have tried to wipe off excess (like they say you can do) but I always seem to misjudge the timing and make it look worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I can relate to that I see some canes out there that has a suburb finish on them I just don't see how they get them to that point. I use chip brussel brush and sometimes the hair falls out of the brush and sticks to the finish. I can usually catch it and remove it before it drys. The sponge brushes I have not had much luck with. I think sometimes the spray can polyurethane may be better seems to apply better on first coat anyway. I usually they to apply about 2 or 3 coats either way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can relate to that I see some canes out there that has a suburb finish on them I just don't see how they get them to that point. I use chip brussel brush and sometimes the hair falls out of the brush and sticks to the finish. I can usually catch it and remove it before it drys. The sponge brushes I have not had much luck with. I think sometimes the spray can polyurethane may be better seems to apply better on first coat anyway. I usually they to apply about 2 or 3 coats either way.
 

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I use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I sand to 220 grit first then wipe on with a rag. It takes several coats to build up a shine. When I get close I go over the stick with steel wool to cut it down and smooth things up then put on the last coat(s). After the oil is done I follow up with buffing it with steel wool and paste wax.
 

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When I use polyurethane I'll brush on the first three or so coats, sanding inbetween with 600 grit sandpaper. The last coat I'll spray and use steel wool on it before polishing with rubbing compound. If I'm making a stick that I'll use when hiking in the woods I'll use mulitiple coats of boiled linseed oil. To polish it I'll make a paste of boiled linseed oil and beeswax. About a 50/50 mix. It's simple to make, there are videos on youtube that shows how.
 

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The DuPont 606 5(?) automotive white polishing compound is a thick paste. It works pretty good but is expensive. Dad used it all the time to give his rifle stocks a nice shine. He'd spray multiple coats of an automotive clear coat for the finish, then sand with 600 grit sandpaper. After doing this a couple of times he'd use the polishing compound.

I inherited his shop building and tools. There was still a little of that polishing compound left and it worked really well but when I ran out of that I found out how expensive it is so I tried some cheap stuff from Wal Mart made by turtle wax. It works but needs more elbow grease than the good stuff.
 

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I've used MinWax Polyurethane on wood projects for years including canes. My dad taught me to rub it in with a rag, several coats and I have never had a problem with bubbles. I also don't nee to clean up brushes.
 
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