[norson]

For Cane #100 - simply because of the number if nothing else - I wanted to do something special - so I countersunk an engraved #100 piece on one side and the FDR Presidential Coin on the other, because he began his presidency the year of my birth, 1933.

(Although there are days when I feel like it might have been 1833.)

But of all the things I'm "good" at dropping my canes ranks way up there. . . this one included - and I drop it the most because I use it the most. DUH. So periodically it needs a refreshing - another coat or two of high gloss spray polyurethane. And the coins need polishing.

Here's a trick I learned. After polishing both coins to their brightest, I cover them with a coat of Vaseline. Then I spray coat the handle - let it dry - then wipe away the Vaseline.

Bingo.

And no, I'm not getting one of those wrist straps.

Yet.

 

[Rodney]

Nice trick for keeping the spray off the metal.

Rodney

 

[norson]

I discovered I was out of spray polyurethane - so I used Formsby Gloss Tung Oil - it worked just as well - I should be able to use my main cane tomorrow - overnight drying time.

 

[cobalt]

Trouble is with a poly finish it does chip if dropped where as a oil base finish gives it better protection with less effort needed to refresh the finish .

A lot of people use it though just personal preference. nice stick though

 

[norson]

Yep - I've found both disadvantages and advantages to both finishes. The convenience of the spray is just the ticket at times but then there's the overspray issue. And the tung oil requires brushing on. So I need (and do) keep an inventory of small throw-away brushes. I'm beginning to prefer Tung Oil - I save the old dried out brushes, cut the heads off - and give them to my grandson for his fireplace kindling.

 

[Rodney]

I just wipe the tung oil on with a rag. Afterward I buff it with 0000 steel wool and paste wax to remove any dust that might be in it and cut the shine a bit. It's a durable and easy to maintain finish but takes time to build up enough coats.

Rodney

 

[Gloops]

I allways use Tung oil on shanks, but on my toppers allways finis with two coats of Matt acrylic varnish + three coats of Satin, this I think gives a more natural looking sheen as opposed to a high gloss finish.

The acrylic varnish I use is Humbrol spray cans, 15 min between coats and quick drying.

 

[cobalt]

i just wipe danish oil on mine with a rag giving it loads of coats. We also use danish oil on all the croquet clubs mallets giving them about8 coats during the winter mnths whilst we cant play

 

[MJC4]

Think I might give the Danish oil a try on the next stick. Does it darken wood like boiled linseed oil?

 

[cobalt]

Think you might like it Markif gives a satin finish which i prefer it does buff up a little to give a more glosser look