Cut some patterns from a book I had .I wanted to look at the difference between the male /female of the mallard as there supposed to be anatomically correct or am I making something out of nothing. the heads and beaks of them are slightly different , but doubt if anyone would notice it.
Have decide not to make any sticks for anyone to concerntrate on the toppers .Still loking for some good patterens, threw several out as my old teacher said could do better .
So cut out a couple of mallards, scoter, ,pintail,canvas back, shoveler and flavours ducks,
need to get a good pattern of a eider duck and some goose heads.Still need to get a piece of ash wood for a crook
My blasted drill has packed up was hoping to drill out the connection hole for the screw threaded bar .Once the basics are done you cn enjoy the carving .
did look for a screw jiont without the brass flange on as would like to avoid using a nickel silver collar the hide the joint .Maybe the only way is to cut the flange off. If you guys know of any screw system that would take a 8mm threaded bar would appreciate it
I will only use one half of the screw joint as I will epoxy the threaded bar into shank and fix the brass screw flange into the topper that way I can get two toppers from one screw joint
cobalt ever used a threaded insert? I have not used one on a stick but have on other wood projects. I have thought about doing a stick or two with the insert. In other uses I have found I prefer the ones with the threaded out side.they screw in to the wood and hold much better than those that you just glue in place. You can drill the a hole for the threaded rod ten enlarge the top of the hole to fit the insert.
The Great Dane interchangeable topper I did I used M8 thread inserts similar to the ones CV3 posted, only diff being metho of insertion
I used Allen Key type.
I also used a collar as this added a lot more support to the joint, I adde the collar to the toppet, could have added it to the shank to save buying a collar for each topper ( Being a Yorkshireman) but thought when topper not attached it would be more pleasing with a collar, could then be housed in a decorative block using the protruding threaded bar and used on display .
The screw thread inserts were got from ebay and I believe they can be purchased in differing lengths
The one I used I fitted using a 10mm dia drilled hole-this was a tight fit screwing it in and didn't need glue, on reflection I would in future use 11.5 or 12 mm drill and bond in with epoxy to prevent any chance of the shank splitting on insertion.
I want to use water buffalo horn as a collar so think i will get a M8 25mm threaded insert epoxy the threaeded bar into the topper with the buffalo horn collar and insert the screw thread into the shaft . A lot cheaper method of attaching than the screw jionts readily available, and will consider using a larger drill as I can imagine that there is a good chance of splitting the shank when inserting the screw insert.The allen key fixing seems a better way for fixing
Thanks Randy/ Gloops very helpful info especially with pictures
I have a preference for the buffalo horn always looks good when a thick collar is inserted
Now just a dam drill to get now mine has packed up
I used a threaded insert on my first walking stick, and several since. The insert installed easily, although on several brass insert installations into very hard woods, it's difficult to avoid stripping the screwdriver slot. Therefore, next time I will try to find the type that Gloops recommended.
I tend to drill a tad too large in the really hard woods, and put a spot of epoxy on the threads. There is then a risk of gunking up the interior threads. Thus the saying "it's better to be lucky than smart." ;-)
I generally use a hanger bolt installed into the toppers.
The greatest challenge for me is always to drill a hole that is perfectly aligned with the axis of the stick, or the part of the axis that I want to be aligned with (for curvy sticks).
alignment is probably the most difficult thing to do .I just hand and eye coordination but it can so often be slightly out .A sharp tap with a hammer can align the threaded bar up enough but to insert a threaded screw will need to take more care as there's no way it can be changed once drilled .So always drill the shank 1st if a mistake is made there's usually enough of the shank to cut it of and re-drill it .I only cut the shank to the length I want when the stick is finished
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