Nice looking sticks Mehig. I would make a suggestion. With the strap attached in the front of the shank the strap may slip off the top of the wrist easier than if they were attached to the back shank. Then if the cane is dropped it is more likely to hang on the wrist. Just a suggestion.
Thanks!! Actually pretty much all the sticks I make are recumbent.....the strap is on the back of the shank. I temporarily attach the strap at various locations(with tape) to find the proper balance point. When lifted the handle or knob is directly under the palm, easily reached.
The hornbeam is extremely hard, locally it's referred to as "musclewood" because of the ridges that run the length of the shank that have the appearance of muscles. Basically power sanding is all I did to the hornbeam. As I'm sure most stick makers know the wood will always give you clues as to what it needs to be worked. To LilysDad. These shanks were cured enough to finish so I finished them but I've come to the conclusion the that the "perfect walking stick" for me is a ball end stick with a slight curve near the ball end. Alador and Batakali know exactly what I'm talking about in terms of a curved shank. I've observed that shanks of this shape have superior balance IMO. This winter I'll know what kind of shanks I'll be looking to cut. This picture of Batakali's last stick illustrates my point.
After using this walking stick I'm amazed. Hornbeam is incredibly stout. Putting all of my 180 lbs on the handle barely deflects the shank. It's 5/8 inches at the bottom to just under 1 inch below the handle. After more research I find it's an Eastern Hophornbeam.
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