[cobalt]

cold to get into the workshop poor light and cant finish of the projects on the go but no rush

so saw a drawing in a carving magazine and took a photo for future work need to scale it to the size I want.

started a drawing of a dragon for a carving not right yet but its more rewarding than watching tv at night so with some modifications to do here they are

 

[CV3]

I picked up a copy of "Carving" magazine yesterday and cut out horse pattern also. Thinking of doing a larger one as a gift for my sister.

 

[Batakali]

I know their sticks aren't too popular here, but check out the cold steel dragon cane. It's based on a old Chinese design. They found a way to keep all the detail but rounded everything out nicely.

 

[cobalt]

whilst waiting for the varnish to dry got on with the new project

the dragon .fair amount of work to do on it

 

[Gloops]

Looking forward to seeing this one grow

 

[cobalt]

its play time, wife's out for the day .Walked into the workshop and its perishing cold put a radiator in there to warm the place up .but will pop in to start after coffee

Mixing resin to glue the toppers on in this temperature isn't very clever, viscosity is very thick. And takes more mixing

the dragon is proving challenging not sure to put the teeth on it facing up or down so will go with the flow

 

[cobalt]

play time is over well for his week

not as much done as i had hoped. still pretty crude looking

 

[cobalt]

modifying the dsign as i go at the moment loking for advice on antler tips or bone to insert as the dragons teeth and horns.

what is easier to cut and shape ?

its harder material to use unlike horn

The dragon is based on different animals the beak based on a eagles , texturing on its head based on a crocodile , the ears are based a a collared lizard and the crop below the neck is based on a iguana with the neck texture on a carp. probable turn out like a real mess .

But as Mark has said designer firewood ??????

 

[Gloops]

Another method could be to use White Milliput to initially roll out to a rough shape press onto the topper and smooth out and shape, this is easily done using dental toos and water which leaves a very smooth finish - sets like stone.

If you have any Milliput any colour give it a try on a scrap piece and when dry do a strenght test on it (bash it)

 

[cobalt]

having a look how wild life carvers attach there birds legs using epoxy putty so it looks the way to go. but as I want to use do some ukibori behind the teeth I will have to attach them when the dragons painted
also looked at the airbrush you use glops have decided to get it but cant find it so could you post it again when you have time as I prefer to get anything on recommendations from people.

 

[Gloops]

Good morning Dennis

This is the airbrush kit I bought - from RDG Tools - http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/

I later added another airbrush set - specifically for the gravity feed res on top as I found that you don't use a lot of paint on toppers

For a very good instructional set of videos on airbrushing can highly recomend a set of 7 videos on youybe :- Airbrushing Wildfowl Carvings.

The cleaning during painting is the method I have adopted and works well - it is important not to let any paint (acrylic) dry in the brush.

Milliput is a 2 part epoxy putty and for something that small I don't think you need any wire, one of the stickmaker I know drills antler coronet to add a wood shape and then builds it up with 2 part epoxy to shape and carve a animal head - lokks good when finished and painted

 

[cobalt]

thanks for the info much appreciated

 

[CV3]

I really like your design cobalt. Have you considered small diameter brass or stainless steel wire? Say 1/16".that's about 1.58mm I think You can shape the end fairly easy then cut to the length yo want for each tooth. the metal teeth would make it stand out. Or once cut you could spray paint them. That may be to small maybe coat hanger wood be a better size.

 

[JJireh]

I use Magic Sculpt, which is like milliput, not sure which is more available over the pond.

 

[MJC4]

Not firewood yet Dennis. Concept is solid. Sometimes I put things up for a bit and looking at it a few days later the "right" method pops into the old noggin.

 

[cobalt]

a tad more done . ended up using dowel for the teeth of the dragon .trying to keep vunerable parts of it as strong as possable .still a way to go yet but nearing the end . will nuse 8mm eyes but will fix them in when most of the texturing is done.

 

[CV3]

Nice job on the teeth cobalt, good looking Dragon. look forward to seeing it finished.

 

[Gloops]

Looking good, using the ribbed dowels is effective, well done

 

[cobalt]

Good morning Dennis

This is the airbrush kit I bought - from RDG Tools - http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/

Screen Shot 2016-12-02 at 09.04.03.png

I later added another airbrush set - specifically for the gravity feed res on top as I found that you don't use a lot of paint on toppers

Screen Shot 2016-12-02 at 09.05.00.png

For a very good instructional set of videos on airbrushing can highly recomend a set of 7 videos on youybe :- Airbrushing Wildfowl Carvings.

The cleaning during painting is the method I have adopted and works well - it is important not to let any paint (acrylic) dry in the brush.

Milliput is a 2 part epoxy putty and for something that small I don't think you need any wire, one of the stickmaker I know drills antler coronet to add a wood shape and then builds it up with 2 part epoxy to shape and carve a animal head - lokks good when finished and painted

thanks for info have ordered the airbrush should be here tomorrow (Friday)looking for supply of paint for it now

 

[Gloops]

I mostly use the common acrylics from most art shops and have also used water colours but these are not as forgiving as acrylic.

On my latest topper I am using "plasticine" as a masking medium for covering areas where paint is not required, it is more malleable for fitting on contoured surfaces as on a carving and when on can be trimmed to shape with a blunt knife.