Walking Stick Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question for those of you who paint your carvings. What type of paints are you using? Craft store acrylics? After painting do you use an antiquing solution? Finally can or do you apply a finish ( varnish, polyurethane etc.) over the painted carving ?

TX, Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,849 Posts
For the most part I use acrylics. I also use oil paints thinning them into a stain. Water based paint can make the grain rise in woods like pine and basswood. I use a primer or thin a varnish 50% to seal the wood, then lightly sand before I paint. All the sticks I paint I use a spar varnish as final sealer. A friend of mine thins his acrylics using them more as a color stain. It is a nice effect allowing the grain to show though.
I have found it good to do some test on scrap wood of the wood I am going to paint before for I paint the carving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
969 Posts
Early one, I put some dabs of color on a few sticks. Used some exterior trim enamel. Rustoleum oil based. Wouldn't recommend it. To heavy for detail, colors really garish, at least the ones I had around. Be certainly will hold up to the outdoor elements for many years.

I can comment on pigments. I worked in an art museum, and did some painting years ago. I suppose the various mediums have improved over the years. What I offer is somewhat dated.

Most acrylics and oils use the same pigments, but the grade of the vehicle differs. If it says "student," the colors are often mixed w. a neutral powder, and so are not as vibrant. I'm not certain if different vehicles are used in acrylics, it used to be something called rhoplex, and the primary difference between different grades was the amount of the medium. Better practice was to buy more expensive tubes, and a jar of medium to be used for thinning as desired. Acrylic varnish can be used as a finish. There are special finish varnishes designed to be stripped away as the varnish surface absorbs dirt, etc from exposure, and then reapplied, leaving the original paint and varnish untouched.

I see that there are now artist oil paints that use alkyd as a vehicle. Assuming my recollection is correct, alkyd is made by heat treating linseed oil, the traditional medium, so that the paint dries to the touch in just a few hours, not days/weeks like linseed based paints. Probably would be a good choice, and I suppose it could be sealed w. polyurethane.

The labels of the tubes should have a light fastness rating. The American scale runs from 1 to 5, one being the best. The British scale runs from 8 to 1, 8 being the best. Most pigments used today are pretty stable. But sometimes the student grade paints are fugitive, and will fade within a few years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
969 Posts
Oh, and I forgot to mention, the paints will adhere better and be more brilliant if you use an undercoat. Classic gesso was a mixture of chalk, or gypsum with rabbit skin glue. Acrylic gesso is common now, usually formed with titanium white. In a pinch, exterior flat white works, at least for acrylics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,170 Posts
Early one, I put some dabs of color on a few sticks. Used some exterior trim enamel. Rustoleum oil based. Wouldn't recommend it. To heavy for detail, colors really garish, at least the ones I had around. Be certainly will hold up to the outdoor elements for many years.

I can comment on pigments. I worked in an art museum, and did some painting years ago. I suppose the various mediums have improved over the years. What I offer is somewhat dated.

Most acrylics and oils use the same pigments, but the grade of the vehicle differs. If it says "student," the colors are often mixed w. a neutral powder, and so are not as vibrant. I'm not certain if different vehicles are used in acrylics, it used to be something called rhoplex, and the primary difference between different grades was the amount of the medium. Better practice was to buy more expensive tubes, and a jar of medium to be used for thinning as desired. Acrylic varnish can be used as a finish. There are special finish varnishes designed to be stripped away as the varnish surface absorbs dirt, etc from exposure, and then reapplied, leaving the original paint and varnish untouched.
I see that there are now artist oil paints that use alkyd as a vehicle. Assuming my recollection is correct, alkyd is made by heat treating linseed oil, the traditional medium, so that the paint dries to the touch in just a few hours, not days/weeks like linseed based paints. Probably would be a good choice, and I suppose it could be sealed w. polyurethane.

The labels of the tubes should have a light fastness rating. The American scale runs from 1 to 5, one being the best. The British scale runs from 8 to 1, 8 being the best. Most pigments used today are pretty stable. But sometimes the student grade paints are fugitive, and will fade within a few years.

Hit the nail oh the head there .I wouldnt advise you use craft store paints use artist paints much better colour and like gdenby says they dont fade

I use acrylis gesso very thin then sand it as CV3 says it lifts the grain,then give it another thin coat a light sand back ,then use arist acryilcs for a undercoat ,then apply the colours i want, then apply 2-3 coats of a clear varnish

I do sometimes use a thin acryilc varnish as a primer mostly if i want a clear finish.

Its better to put thin coats of paint on and build up the colour ,if you try to use it straight from the tube it will fill in the detail and spoiil the carving

Oils i think give a richer colour think there more vibrant but the drying time puts me off using them

Havnt seen you on line lately gdenby hope everything is well with youi

Rad and cas havnt been on for a few days trust alls well with them
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
969 Posts
Thanks, Cobalt, for the concern. Unfortunately, while I'm getting by OK, my wife is having big problems.

Amidst this, we did have a belated 37th wedding anniversary dinner, and afterwards the Chef and cooks asked about the sticks we were using. They were surprised that I had made them, and asked for details. Got to blush a little.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,170 Posts
Hope the wife improves, and the dinner was good , its nice to have items you made asked about, keep well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,849 Posts
These are all done with acrylic paints then 2 to 3 coats of Spar urethane.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the input fellas.

Attached pics are my first painted topper. After looking at the gnome I just finished my wife wanted me to make one with the ears over the hat. I did this one yesterday and finished today with the acrylic paints she uses for her crafting. Once I find a stick I will finish with spar urethane. Once again thanks for all the suggestions.

Mark
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,170 Posts
Your projects are moving along nicely,

so whats next?

It just starts with a simple stick ,then carving tools, then rotary tools, then paints ,then storage problems , then its the madhouse
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top