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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some months ago I posted a shot of a mulberry grip piece that was about ready for finishing. During the intervening months, I've worked on a couple of shanks, and I found a stick that was about the right diameter and had a wood tone somewhat similar to the mulberry.

I've been trying some different finishing methods. While the grip was already fine sanded to at least 1200 grit, and given 2 coats of teak oil, I'm trying something different w. the shaft. I sanded it to about 600 grit, polished it w. diatomaceous earth, put on 2 coats of technical gel solution, buffing after each. Then 2 coats pf "natural" color oil stain.

Recently I got a bottle of something called a refractive ground made for violin finishes. I provides a glassy layer on the wood which the varnish will float on, thereby enhancing the chatoyancy of the wood if it exists.

Its been problematic. The finish sets up very slowly if not exposed to UV, and w. the cloudy wintery spring I've been having, its taken the finish close to 48 hours to set up. Too much time to avoid getting some dust stuck into it.

I'm waiting on a bottle of real amber varnish that will be the final coat.

The pics are:

1. A closeup of the shaft w. just the gel coat

Eyebrow Wood Office ruler Font Scar


2. Same place, 1 coat refractive ground

Wood Artifact Wood stain Hardwood Tree


3. The grip, with an unfinished portion visible in a vise

Wood Cooking plantain Tints and shades Framing hammer Table


While I suspect the finish may be somewhat fragile, I'm hoping it works well for showier sticks than I usually make.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have you tried melamine laquer thinned down 2 to 1 several coats dries very quick
Tried to reply yesterday, but got a message saying the forum was down while the service was being moved to a different server.

Thanks for the tip. For much of the year, I can expose my sticks to sun light, and so all sorts of finishes cure quite rapidly. I did not know the refractive ground needed a certain amount of UV, so it was a little irksome to use it and then have the sky cloud over for a week.

To date, I've intended most of my sticks to be used while hiking thru fields that are often muddy and brambly. I had not tried lacquer because I understood it to be somewhat water soluble. For the past few years, I've been using multiple coats of oil. I see the price is only a fraction of the violin maker's ground, so I will have to try some of the melamine out.

I see when searching for the lacquer there's a company that also makes a cellulose based sanding sealer. I've tried dilute shellac recently, but it blocked too much stain color for my taste. Good to find another possible resource.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you're concerned about the handle breaking drill it from the bottom and put a steel rod in it to strengthen the thin area.

Rodney
The shaft is only weighs about 3/4 pound, and the mulberry feels sturdy. However, I did leave the larger unfinished portion for the threaded rod. I expect I'll use this myself mostly as an element of style, rather than utility. Just a little something for days when my knees are a little creaky
 

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That is a unique handle. Trying different finishes is fun and informative for the most part. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice handle it will be a unique stick.
Thanks,

Mostly I just carve away till it feels good in my palm. This bit of wood had some rot in it, and as I cut that away, the shape of the lower section just occurred to me.

I received the amber varnish for the final coat, and tried out a small patch. Like the violin ground undercoat, the varnish also benefits from UV exposure. Finally had some sunny and windless days, and so 6 hours in the sun light finally set up the undercoats, and the bit of varnish. Also reviewed a couple of dings in the wood, and a few places where the undercoat was too thin.

I touch those up today, and try setting the metal rod into the grip tomorrow. With good weather, and nothing unforeseen, I expect to finish by Monday next.
 
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