That's a nice shillelagh, i would prefer not to cut until they have seasoned but let me know how it works out for you, i heard freezing the stick or handle stops the handle from splitting but i think i takes a long time in a freezer.
Rough Cut on the Shillelagh
Here is an update on my future Shillelagh --- I decided to risk some rough cutting and try something that I've heard that those who work on Green Wood do; I baged it after the rough cutting in an attempt to keep it from spliting. I've included some pictures; as soon as I can figure out how to put pictures in the Gallery I will stick them there instead.
Sorry!
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The updates will probably be slow in coming, but I will do it as I work on it -- who knows, maybe I'll just end up with a fancy hot dog roasting stick!That's a nice shillelagh, i would prefer not to cut until they have seasoned but let me know how it works out for you, i heard freezing the stick or handle stops the handle from splitting but i think i takes a long time in a freezer.
Just an update -- I replaced the plastic bag with a paper bag and I've started to apply a lean mix of boiled linseed oil between workings.
Yeah that has the makings of a great stick! Good job so far on it.
Thank you Sean -- I'm looking forward to working it to its conclusion; even with my rushing it, it will still take some time.Yeah that has the makings of a great stick! Good job so far on it.
Nice looking stick!. What kind of wood is that?
It is crab apple -- just an experiment, but thank you! I've decided that even if it does some splitting, I will experiment with some repair types that I've read about.Nice looking stick!. What kind of wood is that?
This whole rough cut while still green project is just an experiment -- so if you hear me waffling, understand I'm just trying to find out what works! Originally I coated the knob with a lean linseed oil mix and placed in a plastic bag -- then I switched to a paper bag, fearing that I might get mold. But, I've switched back to the plastic bag, it was drying out too fast, and I'm coating every day with my lean mixture, so I don't think there is any chance for mold.
From what I have seen fruit woods are notorious for cracking and checking. I'll be interested to see how it goes.
I know -- like I said -- just an experiment! I'll keep the updates coming as they are available.From what I have seen fruit woods are notorious for cracking and checking. I'll be interested to see how it goes.
I'm start'n to feel the pressure!I B watchin' too!
That's perfect! The reason that I made the telescoped one is that even a little bend will prevent a stick from going into the 4" PVC. So I use the 4" for very straight sticks and the 4"-6" telescoped version for the bent ones. It is a pain in the rear to pour the liquid gold (Pentacryl) from one to the other so I have begun to use a rubber bucket to transfer the liquid.
I have not yet tried the soap idea.
I have not yet tried the soap idea.
Pentacryl claims that the drying time is typically reduced by 30%, which works out to .7 x 12 mos. per inch of thickness, or about 8 1/2 mos. per inch. Supposedly cracking will be significantly reduced. As I have bought two gallons and a quart already, I hope this proves correct. My beer fund is being seriously depleted!
We will see, and I know what you mean, I'm not a drinker -- but it does cut into the wallet pretty deep! I've heard that denatured alcohol might work just as well as pentacryl -- I might give it a test with another piece.As I have bought two gallons and a quart already, I hope this proves correct. My beer fund is being seriously depleted!
Interesting! As alcohol is miscible in water it won't replace water but it seems that the concentration gradient would cause the alcohol concentration to increase in the water within the wood. I don't know what effect that would have on shrinkage. Perhaps the organic nature of the alcohol would cause some adhesion to the wood and thus the shrinkage would be less? I wish I knew more about the chemistry and the process, and had the time, similar wood sticks, and money to do some controlled experiments.We will see, and I know what you mean, I'm not a drinker -- but it does cut into the wallet pretty deep! I've heard that denatured alcohol might work just as well as pentacryl -- I might give it a test with another piece.As I have bought two gallons and a quart already, I hope this proves correct. My beer fund is being seriously depleted!
CAS --check out the following concerning DA ---- http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/turning/articles_473.shtmlInteresting! As alcohol is miscible in water it won't replace water but it seems that the concentration gradient would cause the alcohol concentration to increase in the water within the wood. I don't know what effect that would have on shrinkage. Perhaps the organic nature of the alcohol would cause some adhesion to the wood and thus the shrinkage would be less? I wish I knew more about the chemistry and the process, and had the time, similar wood sticks, and money to do some controlled experiments.We will see, and I know what you mean, I'm not a drinker -- but it does cut into the wallet pretty deep! I've heard that denatured alcohol might work just as well as pentacryl -- I might give it a test with another piece.As I have bought two gallons and a quart already, I hope this proves correct. My beer fund is being seriously depleted!
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