I really wish I knew. I love the look. It would probably take a silversmith to tell you how. Even then you might have a hard time finding one who knows for sure. I don't think that kind of work is done much if at all these days.
It will be if I can find out how!I don't think that kind of work is done much if at all these days.
It certainly looks like some construction soldering has become obvious. That does look like the mess low temp solder would make.One way which occurs to me would be to blacken the bit of the handle which you want to show through the silver then wrap a piece of paper around it. When you take the paper away, there will be dark marks where the paper touched the wood. You cut these out and continue the process until it fits the way you want it to, then use that as a stencil to trace the pattern onto a sheet of silver. Cut it out and wrap it around the cane head. If you heat the silver first and allow it to cool slowly, it will be fairly malleable and you can hammer it into place for a snug fit. Solder the place(s) where it joins.
Another possibility would be to skip the paper stencil and just wrap the silver around the cane, give it a few taps with a small hammer to mark where the cutouts should go, then cut them out. Repeat until it fits and tack or solder it into place.
I would imagine that's how this one was done.
Briar has a janka scale hardness of 2,090 which puts it nearer the top end of the scale, so I don't think an anvil would be needed. Not for the entire forming process, at any rate. Silver is the second most malleable metal there is, gold being first. At 1/8 or 1/16 inch thickness, only light hammer blows would be needed to deform it if it has been annealed beforehand. Exactly how thick is the silver on the stick you have in mind?
~~~ 1/8-1/16" is still rather heavy plate.
The metal will stretch as it is deformed/hit. There is no way that a silver 'cup' can be placed over the smaller handle and beaten, lightly or heavily, into a tight, form-fit over the wood.
Wetting the wood would help reduce scorching from soldering, I suppose.
~~~ I think that you might have something there, if soldering is, indeed, needed.
Silver solder is still a high temp solder, though, and I doubt the wet wood, with it's heat sink properties vs the temp of silver solder..
Perhaps the 'plate' is so thin that, with small snippets of solder, a 'flash heat' might do it...
Still, all guess work...
Or another possibility occurs to me that after some rough fitting has been done, the silver sheet could be soldered off the stick, leaving the ends open and the whole thing slid up the length of the stick to where it fits, and the rest of the chasing done in place.
~~~ Except the inherent nature of the burl handle precludes the 'slide it up and on thing. Too much 'topography'.
I would guess that a final thing would be the chasing, but that, too, can stretch the metal while compressing...
I think you may be overthinking this issue; going for a complicated solution rather than the simplest.
~~~ That is possible, of course, but considering the time period in which this work was done, and the 'whimsical nature' of the canes to which applied, one would think a 'simple' method was used.
Love to know what it was. *__-