[CAS14]

Just joking. At my age not much bothers me, unless you mess with my grandkids, then you are in deep doo doo.

 

[CAS14]

I am working on the ULTIMATE rustic walking stick and Jacob's staff for the fanatical geologist. My 40 year old Jacob's staff from school days was in the attic, sitting unused for 10 years. I removed the Abney level so that I could devise... an attachment device for the new stick. Sadly, the ethanol has leaked or evaporated from the bubble level. This attaches via posts that measure 3.2 cm apart.
The usual suppliers, Forestry Suppliers, Ben Meadows, and Minerox can not replace the bubble. I think that the manufacturer, Mikasa, is out of business.
Any ideas? Where is a really good source of lots of leveling bubbles like this? I could just purchase a new Abney level, but this one has been over outcrops all over the USA and like my trusty rock hammer, I don't want to give it up.

1970 Mikasa Abney level_50.jpg

1) We returned home late Sunday from my brother's place in Texas. I cut some cured but cracked cedar, some green cedar, some oak, and another wood not found around Tulsa. Now I have to decide between the pecan that I bought (it will be here this week), and the cracked but very hard and with shrinkage cracks. I am inclined to use the "natural" from my brother's place, after some remedial work on those cracks, some of which extend 3/8" and into the heartwood.

2) The replacement level from Forestry Suppliers was waiting on our doorstep. With a little reaming of the pre-drilled screw holes, it fit perfectly. The internal mirror is a bit cloudy but it works well enough. This Abney may not be as good as new, but it has travelled all over the USA, throughout the Rockies and the Appalachians, and many other areas. I can't give it up.

I think that if I heat the structural epoxy on a glass plate and warm the cracked cedar stick, that the epoxy will penetrate deeper into the cracks. I made thin sections (slides from thin slices of rock) as a graduate assistant, over forty years ago. We heated the epoxy back then. If nobody here says "no don't do it", then I will try that. The epoxy should be less viscous.

 

[Rad]

Welcome back! Looking forward to seeing what you do.

 

[JJireh]

Cedar is a tricky beast, because of its structure it can be sturdy as stone, but have a hidden weakness that can break a stick from top to bottom. This is also dependent on the types of cedars too. We have red cedars here and I personally avoid them unless the are to remain un-cut and not carved. i.e. a post I wouldn't put my best equipment on them, but you could experiment with them. The fact that they are alread cracked would make me even more wary.

 

[CAS14]

Cedar is a tricky beast, because of its structure it can be sturdy as stone, but have a hidden weakness that can break a stick from top to bottom. This is also dependent on the types of cedars too. We have red cedars here and I personally avoid them unless the are to remain un-cut and not carved. i.e. a post I wouldn't put my best equipment on them, but you could experiment with them. The fact that they are alread cracked would make me even more wary.

Thanks for the heads up! I will avoid installing expensive hardware, at least until I have banged them around a bit. I believe that this is also red cedar, and so your experience is especially relevant. I think that I will go ahead with the epoxy experiment, unless the guys at Woodcraft advise that this particular structural epoxy shouldn't be heated. I should experiment with a small segment that is deeply cracked, apply the warm epoxy, let it cure, and then saw it to see how far it penetrated and how well it bonded the crack.

If only there is a way to use these very straight and attractive sticks, I would have an unlimited supply every time I visit my brother.

 

[CAS14]

Jumping ahead to hardware, I need a detachable bracket to secure a mount for the Abney level so that can be detached and protected in rough terrain, and easily attached, perfectly level if the stick is perpendicular to sea level. Plans A, B, C, and D failed because no such parts could be found or they were just too complicated. Plan E will work. A bed rail bracket will attach near the top of the stick, and the other part of the bracket will screw into square hardwood dowels with spacers. The hardwood is not yet purchased.

 

[CAS14]

Several leather instrument cases will simply secure to the stick with some sort of web belt device, including the Abney level and the Brunton compass. My KA-BAR sheath may be attached that way, depending on the group or if I am solo.

All equipment dilemmas are solved. Now I need to epoxy my favorite, cracked cedar stick.

 

[CAS14]

Here is the likely stick, right after cutting.
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/139-me-and-my-niece-at-my-brothers-place-near-fairfield-tx/

The stick is warming, and hot epoxy is about to be applied to the cracks on one side.
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/140-1st-candidate-stick/

A few weeks later, beginning to use the draw knife and then some sanding with 40 grit.

http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/162-red-cedar-stick-a-work-in-progress/

Sanded down to 80 grit, then popped four recessed areas with 1 1/8" forstner bit. This is an experiment (shouldn't experiment on a piece with so much labor invested, but I maintain a positive attitude). A safer option would be to shave one or more sides flat, and then use the forstner bit, as with my profile image (a stick made for me by a retired Marine Gunny). However, I wanted this look:

http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/178-more-progress/

 

[CAS14]

SitRep: pecan 2"x2" notched to fit Abney level very well, and a brass latch purchased to secute. Drilled with forstner and 9/16" with threaded 3/8"x16 female insert installed, and it secures nicely to the stick.

Working on the Glif iPhone attachment for stabile photos - shaping a bronze plumbing thing to protect exposed threads and to look better.

Dog tag and five of eight military pins embedded.

20mm shell arrives Tuesday for the bottom tip. I'll drill out the top and shape the stick to fit, then epoxy the 20mm on. Then, hack saw the lead round and drill and screw mount a hard rubber furniture leg protector so that it is exactly 5 feet below the sight on the Abney level when attached.

Rasp "Chepo-style" grooves at three one-foot spaced intervals, epoxy & wrap soft brass 16-ga. wire, and then mark 1/10 foot for a foot with brass screws. Then I can measure thin outcropping rock beds.

Make another hardwood attachment just for a compass.

Seal & finish with lots of coats of Danish Oil & then wax.

Add a paracord section to grip with a loop.

Name it MacGyver, as the girl at the hardware store suggested after asking me what I was doing with all the assorted hardware.

A few hours every other weekend isn't knocking this out very quickly, but it is beggining to take shape.

Right now, using a rasp to cut grooves at one-foot intervals similar to the "Chepo style" grooves I learned about on the Slingshot Forum. They worked great on my first slingshit:

 

[Rad]

Looking forward to the end product! ------ I'm sure your last line up there was a type O -- . Or not?

 

[gdenby]

Seems you are making great strides (groan) towards some walking bling. The iPhone attachment is also pretty cool, but careful... "Geologist found at bottom of ravine, last seen texting at the edge of Sharp Rock canyon. More at 11." :thumbsu:

 

[CAS14]

Ha ha, maybe a Freudian slip? ;-)

 

[CAS14]

Seems you are making great strides (groan) towards some walking bling. The iPhone attachment is also pretty cool, but careful... "Geologist found at bottom of ravine, last seen texting at the edge of Sharp Rock canyon. More at 11." :thumbsu:

11 o'clock update: geologist found impaled on a stick full of gadgetry. Foul play suspected.

 

[CAS14]

CHEPO WIRED!

Soft brass wire secured at one-foot intervals in grooves with structural epoxy. Thanks to the groovy method explained by Chepo on Aaron's slingshot forum.

 

[CAS14]

Pics soon. Epoxied bubble level to top of pecan mount for the Abney level. The bronze fitting that holds the 3/8" x 16 to 1/4" x 20 adapter for the Glif iPhone and/or camera mount was finished. Now I have these two and the KA-BAR handle that screw onto the top of the stick. Next, a marblewood block to hold the diver's compass.

 

[CAS14]

Looking forward to the end product! ------ I'm sure your last line up there was a type O -- . Or not?

Ok Rad, here are (links to) the pics:

Abney level mounted, it becomes a geologist's Jacob's staff:
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/205-abney-level-mounted/

Camera or iPhone mounted, it becomes a steady staff for the photographer:
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/206-iphone-mount/

KA-BAR handle mounted, it becomes a conversation piece for old Marines:
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/200-ka-bar-handle-attachment/

Side 1 - Marine pins:
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/201-usmc-stuff-side-1/

Side 2 - Marine pins and a dogtag:
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/202-usmc-stuff-side-2/

Grip for climbing uphill, with brass wire spaced at 1-foot for measuring outcrops:
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/203-brass-wire-bands-spaced-one-foot-apart/

Brass screws every 0.1' for one foot, for measuring thin beds and small objects:
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/207-brass-screws-at-01-intervals-for-one-foot/

Ferrule - 20mm brass cartridge, with brass wire one foot from the base:
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/204-20-mm-brass-casing-at-base/

The whole enchilada:
http://walkingstickforum.com/gallery/image/199-1st-coat-of-tung-oil-applied/

 

[Rad]

Thanks CAS! Great project, its been fun following it -- now what ya gonna do?

 

[CAS14]

Waiting on several oak sticks to cure, collected in December and January, soaked in Pentacryl for a week each. I'm reluctant to push my luck on those, they are for my son and my son-in-law.

So, I suppose I'll work on a simpler hiking stick for me that I wouldn't be afraid to check as baggage (in a fishing pole tube), when we fly to San Francisco to visit our son, or elsewhere.

If I can find the right hardware, I've thought of a much stronger and less labor intensive way to attach another 20mm brass cartridge. That makes a nice ferrule, and a lot cheaper than the ones you can purchase.

Also, I have to learn more about wood carving. I'd like to be able to carve some simple things. A long term goal.

Finally, wood burning - the stick I had made a couple of years ago has some outstanding artwork burned into it and then the retired Marine dyed some areas of the artwork. Another longer term goal.

 

[CAS14]

Just ordered a 40mm dummy round. I think I can use the 3/8" - 16 thread at the top to make yet another "topper."

 

[gdenby]

Also, I have to learn more about wood carving. I'd like to be able to carve some simple things. A long term goal.

To help you get started. First thing my teacher told me. "Sharpen your tools before every use. Keep your stone handy while working. If the tool starts slipping, freshen the edge."

Not possible to make a fine carving w/o also knowing how to make a fine edge.