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A friend wants a two pice hiking pole i said i would consider doing it if i had the right shank for the job.

the fixtures needs a 12mm hole drilling in the cntre of the shank so a fair size shank would be needed. so had a look at the few shanks i have left thats seasoned, a tad bent so will have to straighten it

just need to check the measurements before i commit myself to it and it needs straighting, he is a tall well built man and think the shank may be a bit on the small size for him ,The shank is under 1.2 m which i would noramally use for the small/ average man

a couple of photos of the shank and the fixtures needed for the job, he never said what he wanted on the top of it, but i know he keeps a rare breed of sheep called soay so will have to check the bread out for some photos

2 piece 001.JPG 2 piece 004.JPG
 

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When you are drilling a 12mm hole do you use a 25mm diameter or bigger shank? It would seem 1.2m may be a bit short if he is a tall man. Would you add 50mm with thumb stick top?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
your right in all cases havnt mesured the diameter yet . the thing is when or if i cut the shank in half i just hope i have the right angle as its all done by hand and eye. like all drilling a tall piece theres no jig for it , i just close my eyes and think of england lol
 

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As far as the right angle a Miter Box works great. You can get precision one at a good price. I made the first one and used it for years. I still use one for cutting my sticks. I clamp the stick to it I get a smooth square cut every time. A drilling jig that works petty well is not had to make either. Before I got my Shop Smith. I made my own.

Drilling jig.

I. Cut 2 or 3 2"x 4" 5"long. then cut a matching number of 1"x 4" the same size.

2. draw an x going corner to corner on each of the blocks 2 x 4 blocks gave me a center point.

3. I drill a hole in center of each of the blocks each hole will be different sizes. I use one of these 3 size allthread, 5/16th" , 3/8th" or 1/4th" to connect toppers to the shaft. Using 3 2"x 4" blocks I drilled one size hole in the center each 2"x 4".To make sure that each hole is square I use piece of heavy tin bent in a L shape. It will work well as drilling guide for a straight hole.( See Picture. )

4. I would choose 2x4 block with the size hole I needed and would place it square on the top of a 1x4. Then using the hole in the 2x4 I marked the center on the 1x4 with a pencil.

5. Then I would put a small nail or brad in the center of the top of the shaft or shank. Then drill a small hole in the center mark on the 1x4 about the size of the brad or nail. Then place nail coming out of the shaft in that hole and trace around the shaft. Then if you have a drill bit just a bit smaller than the shape of the tracing of the top of the shaft drill a hole.Then with a file or a coping saw make the hole the same size and shape of the shaft.

6. Then using 4 screws attach the 1x4 to the 2x4.

7. Then you have a drill jig that fits on top of the shaft and you can drill a straight hole in to the shaft.

If most of you shafts are basically the same size you can reuse the same jig. I had about 10 different 1x4 's cut outs. I could almost always fined on that fit the shaft I was using.

I hope this is useful.
 

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As far as the right angle a Miter Box works great. You can get precision one at a good price. I made the first one and used it for years. I still use one for cutting my sticks. I clamp the stick to it I get a smooth square cut every time. A drilling jig that works petty well is not had to make either. Before I got my Shop Smith. I made my own.

Drilling jig.

I. Cut 2 or 3 2"x 4" 5"long. then cut a matching number of 1"x 4" the same size.

2. draw an x going corner to corner on each of the blocks 2 x 4 blocks gave me a center point.

3. I drill a hole in center of each of the blocks each hole will be different sizes. I use one of these 3 size allthread, 5/16th" , 3/8th" or 1/4th" to connect toppers to the shaft. Using 3 2"x 4" blocks I drilled one size hole in the center each 2"x 4".To make sure that each hole is square I use piece of heavy tin bent in a L shape. It will work well as drilling guide for a straight hole.( See Picture. )

4. I would choose 2x4 block with the size hole I needed and would place it square on the top of a 1x4. Then using the hole in the 2x4 I marked the center on the 1x4 with a pencil.

5. Then I would put a small nail or brad in the center of the top of the shaft or shank. Then drill a small hole in the center mark on the 1x4 about the size of the brad or nail. Then place nail coming out of the shaft in that hole and trace around the shaft. Then if you have a drill bit just a bit smaller than the shape of the tracing of the top of the shaft drill a hole.Then with a file or a coping saw make the hole the same size and shape of the shaft.

6. Then using 4 screws attach the 1x4 to the 2x4.

7. Then you have a drill jig that fits on top of the shaft and you can drill a straight hole in to the shaft.

If most of you shafts are basically the same size you can reuse the same jig. I had about 10 different 1x4 's cut outs. I could almost always fined on that fit the shaft I was using.

I hope this is useful.
 

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I really hate we can not go back to edit mistakes a few hours later. We should have a day ,24 hours ,
 

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Thats works fine

I have a few blocks thats been put into a drill press then useing a spade bit i drill a hole about half way down the block of 2x4 useing a range of spade bits for each size i use ,so the block slots over the shank the centre of the block is drilled with a 8mm hole its this i have used in the past for centering a threaded 8mm threded bar so the toppers sit on it..Most of the time i just use hand eye co=ordination and been pretty sucsseful with , yes i have made the oocasional slip up but on the whole i have found it works.

But cuting a cente of a shank using a 12mm spade bit so the fixrures correctly needs a lot more concerntration to get a good fit between the two pieces isnt so easy oftern one is slightly out which causes a problem i usauall make the offending hole slighly lager the mix some epoxy putty up and correct it that way .

when i cut a shank in half i find the center of the shank by using a thin bit of wood drawing a right angle with a pencil on all four sides on the end .

so you get the box drawn centre it with a x knock a small nail in the center of one of the halfs and using a straight edge slot them together,just give a sharp tap and remove the nail which gives me the center piont then drill carefully

but will give your idea a go and see how i get on with it.

so thanks

regarding the editing on here your not the only one having trouble with it ,you read through it thinking thats okay post it the the errors stand out, i anm convinced the the keys move whilst your typing ,yet the wife never looks at the keyboard when she does it ,so blame it on the keyboard i do . but is annoying noy being able to edit things later

I have just posted a few pics in the gallery of the full length hikingpole and see that the thumb nails just show the center of the pole ? which looks crazy , how did you mange to slot yours into the galley correctly?
 

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I would not want to try and center cut a shank with a spade bit. Your a better with the drill than I am. As far as the pictures in the gallery I have no idea how the end up right. I just post them. It may be because I reduce the pixels before I post them.
 

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The interchanable topper i make are all fitted with a fixture i would use on a two peice pole,They where all done with a 12mm(1/2inch) spade bit.The only reason i used the spade bit was i didnt have a 12mm wood drill bit

the biggest problem in doing them is the fact that i just use a natuarl hazel shank ,so there hardly ever totall round ,but a silver nickel collar will cover small defects and minor differences in size on the shank .Its a case of inspecting the shank and assesiing it well before you do it.The majority of the shanks i use are approx 1inch diameter or near enough.

a few photos of the fixture

The drawings are for something i did a while ago someone wants them but asked for a larger size so had to redo the drawing quite handy just blew them up on the comuterand modified the heads where it meets the shank.The griifins and the dragons head head are the origainal one i did just popped it on to show how to cover the brass fixtures

desgn fixture 007.JPG desgn fixture 008.JPG desgn fixture 009.JPG desgn fixture 010.JPG desgn fixture 015.JPG
 

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