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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On another forum we have been having a discussion about wood rasps. I have used rasps for many years for shaping handles and clean up on canes and walking sticks . Until last year all my rasps were regular machined made repeating pattern teeth and while they did the job there was always alot of sanding to remove the file marks. I had heard of hand made hand stitched rasps. But I had never used one I had just seen the price. I finally decided to invest in one. It was "Auriou" cabinet makers rasp. And it was a investment and but worth it. I had spent more money on tools that were a big disappointment and I was afraid this may have been one of those buys. It wasn't. I got a second combination rasp with 2 grains sizes, one on each side not long after I got my first Auriou rasp.. They cut smother and faster than my older files and it is less work to shape with them. There are some youtubes showing how they are made. You will understand the price when you see the time it takes to stitich the surface of the file. becouse the teeth are off set from one another the cuts are smoother. and with the fine grit #13 a light sanding usually takes care of any file marks. There are a number of makers of hand stitich rasp makers. I can only share about the Auriou. With the stick makers on here I am sure there are others who can share their thoughts on rasps they have used.
 

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Saw a Youtube about handmade rasps once. The amount of work in making them, I didn't even think about asking the price because it would be way beyond my budget.
I did invest in a Shinto rasp a while ago and I love it. When asked for a review of it, I mentioned that if they made a half-round version, I'd let the creator marry my daughter. (I don't actually have a daughter or kids in general, but that's how much I liked the flat version of this rasp.) That and a Stanley round microfile are my two main shaping tools. Then I go to a Nichols half round, then sand, then a very tiny half round I'm not sure who the maker was to get out any remaining tool marks, then sand again.
 

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I have one of the Nicholson half round rasps, I also have a very aggressive burr for my RotoZip. That Burr really will remove some wood quickly but the marks it leaves are really hard to remove. I like the looks of that Shinto rasp, looks like it will do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Jim, I have a shino rasp and I use it to remove bark an rough out work. It does fill up fast and I have to stop and clean it more than heave cut rasps. It also leaves some deep marks that can difficult to remove. If you get it at an angle it can saw a deep cut in the work. I use a lot of hardwoods for walking sticks so minimizing clean up is why I went to the hand stitched rasps.
 

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Hi Jim, I have a shino rasp and I use it to remove bark an rough out work. It does fill up fast and I have to stop and clean it more than heave cut rasps. It also leaves some deep marks that can difficult to remove. If you get it at an angle it can saw a deep cut in the work. I use a lot of hardwoods for walking sticks so minimizing clean up is why I went to the hand stitched rasps.
Thanks Randy, that is good to know.

I don't have any trouble getting the bark off the sticks, I use my pocket knife for that. I appreciate your information.
 

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Randy, you're right about it clogging in bark, and I'll add punky wood to that. I tend to use a spoke shave for most of my bark removal on shanks and a couple of curve-bladed Xacto knives for the roots (one concave and the other convex).

I have found that using the more aggressive side of the Shinto for bulk removal then turning it over to the less aggressive side and going at 90 degrees to the first cuts tends to solve most of the issues with tool marks.
 
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